Maria’s Mexican Restaurant perseveres in a crowded field

With Mexican cuisine being ingrained in L.A. culture, there is a multitude of restaurants for potential customers to choose from. To survive, Mexican restaurants need to draw in customers with options at almost every street corner.

Maria’s Mexican Food in Glendora must be doing something right as it has been a part of the community since 1967. Sitting at the corner of Foothill Boulevard and Grand Avenue,  Maria’s is about one mile east of Citrus College.

The 50-year-old establishment recently went through major renovations. With the adjacent Starbucks moving shop, ownership leased out the neighboring space, knocked down a few walls and expanded their footprint.

With the theme of a Mexican cantina, the new bar area greets customers as they enter the front door. Directly to the left on the way to the main dining area, customers are also welcomed to a view of the kitchen.

Huge pots of pinto beans are being cooked, fresh vegetables are being chopped and orders are being rushed to their tables.

Maria’s ownership is not afraid to let customers get a glimpse behind their curtain.

Of course, none of this matters if the food is subpar. And while a couple of items on the menu disappoint, Maria’s makes up for it in other areas that warrant a visit.

There are no surprises hiding in Maria’s menu. It consists of traditional Mexican dishes like enchiladas, burritos and tacos. The average cost of a combination plate is about $10.

Its a la carte menu has the most affordable options. For instance, the meat and bean burrito only costs $3.05, but this minimalist burrito is lacking in a couple of areas. Customers can choose between beef, shredded chicken and Chile Verde. As far as other ingredients go, only two are present, just meat and beans.

Those opting for shredded chicken should know that their jaws are in for a workout. While not as dry as beef jerky, the chicken is comparable in its leather-like texture. The chicken is also bland — making it perfect for those who are sensitive to sodium — as there seems to be none incorporated into the meat. With the beans having some actual flavor, the shredded chicken just turns into a chewy clump of flavorless mass.

Fortunately, the Burrito Special brings the complexity that is lacking in its smaller brother. The only thing these two burritos have in common is the flour tortillas that hold them together.

At about three times the size and twice the cost, the Burrito Special is stuffed with carne asada, guacamole, rice and refried beans. Unlike the shredded chicken, the carne asada has the perfect balance of savory with a hint of sweetness.

This time around, the meat is tender and soft. While the carne asada is no filet mignon, the meat is an improvement from the chicken. All of the ingredients blend well: the creaminess of the guacamole tames the savory meat. The Spanish rice sprinkles in a dash of tomato sauce. And the beans, well, taste like beans. Nothing overpowers the flavor of the meat. They only serve to enhance the overall experience.

Overall, Maria’s has a couple of things going for it, the restaurant is established in the community and serves fresh and affordable food. Despite the underwhelming shredded chicken, the Burrito Special alone is worth a trip to Maria’s.